I've had Tudor Fashion by Eleri Lynn on my virtual TBR for - ahem - years but when I started reading Wolf Hall by Hilary Mantel back in January, I thought it was finally time to request it from my local library. Eleri Lynn is the former curator of the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Historic Royal Palaces and if the name rings a bell, that's because I recently reviewed another of her books Underwear - Fashion in Detail.
During the 1500s, dress was a form of competitive magnificence and was regularly reported on across the continent by ambassadors. And it's thanks to these letters that we have some detailed descriptions of the clothes being worn at court, particularly by the reigning monarch.
During the Tudor period (1485-1603), Sumptuary Laws were still in place and every member of society knew what they were - and were not - permitted to wear, creating clear class divides. However, a book about Tudor fashion is obviously going to focus on the most exquisite fabrics, needlework, embellishments, jewels and accessories of the time as that's where the level of craftsmanship is at its highest.
Much of what we know about fashion in the Tudor period - and earlier - has been obtained by studying the portraits painted at the time. To this end, several artworks are included in the book and serve to complement various descriptions of garments, jewels and accessories. Also included are photographs of several exhibits held by the V&A Museum, Historic Royal Palaces and other Trusts, museums and galleries around the world.
Given my motivation for exploring Tudor Fashion while reading Wolf Hall, I was thrilled to see the portrait of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex painted by Hans Holbein the Younger. Wolf Hall is about the life of Cromwell and this very portrait features in Mantel's book. Lynn also explains that Cromwell avoided the trappings of his station and instead chose to dress as a simple lawyer in black robes as he was not born into nobility.
I love reading about the Tudor period in particular but was still shocked to read just how enormous the Tudor household was.
"The Tudor household was vast: Henry VIII's numbered 1,500 at its height. The household consisted of three sections: the household above stairs, which fell under the control of the Lord Chamberlain; the household below stairs, which was presided over by the Lord Steward; and the stables, which was overseen by the Master of the Horse." Page 109Fascinating isn't it? Lynn goes into further detail, outlining which staff were assigned to which areas of the household, who was entitled to wear livery and how it was produced and funded.
I thoroughly enjoyed the detailed section about dressing a Tudor lady or queen and given women didn't wash their hair often, I appreciated this insight as to how they kept their hair from becoming greasy:
"A combing cloth was then placed over her shoulders while her hair was rubbed with a warm cloth to remove grease and dandruff, then combed. A ready-styled and dressed wig would then be put on her hair." Page 137It was also a nice reminder - for me - to read how crucial pins were in Tudor dress. Pins were the primary means of holding the various layers of clothing together and in 1559, 24,000 pins of different sizes were supplied to Queen Elizabeth I, with similar numbers provided every 6 months. In How To Be a Tudor by Ruth Goodman I learned that pins from this era are still being found in the Thames today and in Mudlarking - Lost and Found on the River Thames by Lara Maiklem, the author explained that pins accumulate and wash together in tangled metallic nests and that they're one of her favourite treasures to find because they're so ordinary.
Tudor Fashion by Eleri Lynn is an informative and enjoyable read and will appeal to those with an interest in fashion, history, conservation, art and the Tudor period.
Carpe Librum!
